Kalamkari Block printing

The Kalamkari block printing

Kalamkari block printing comes from Pedana near Machilipatnam. This type of Kalamkari work is tedious to follow different steps, but not as Pen Kalamkari.

Kalamkari is the earliest and more complex techniques of block-printing on cloth using vegetable dyes.  The kalamkari done here is a mixture of painting and hand-printing. This craft started in the old city of Golconda.

The process followed is complex and intricate. The special artisans make these blocks.  These blocks have very detailed and elaborate designs carved on them.

The color fastness is ensured by washing, bleaching, and sunning.

The wax-resist is hand-printed on to the fabric with a kalam or pen made of an iron loop attached to a bamboo stick. By boiling the process the wax is removed. After removing wax, the colors will be applied.

The detailed coloring is done with a brush.  The cloth will be washed under running water for washing. This process takes several days, weeks, or months depending on the length of the cotton cloth.

This craft reached its zenith during British rule and was also in high demand as dress and furnishing material in Europe and Southeast Asia. The motifs used were floral and animal designs.

The Persian influence on the designs is visible: ornamental birds, flowers, creepers, and mehrabs or archways found chiefly in Mughal architecture are common.

The kalamkari block printing is generally done on cotton and cotton silk fabrics. This fabric is very much demand for blouses, kurtas, skirts and dress materials etc. These sarees also very much appreciated by all ages of women.